Los Cabos takes off with posh hotels, lush links

By Bob Schulman Special to PRIME There was a time about a half-century ago when Los Cabos a 22-mile stretch of beaches, coves and lagoons at the tip of Western Mexico's Baja Peninsula was an exclusive hideaway of the rich and famous. From Hollywood's playground You could spot the silky set's private planes and yachts all over the place. Erroll Flynn, Tyrone Powers, Lana Turner, Desi Arnez, Bing Crosby and the gang came down here for a few days of sports fishing in waters teeming with marlin, sailfish, dorado, yellowfin tuna, wahoo and the like. Or to cut a quiet deal with the studio moguls. Or maybe for some star-class shenanigans. Those who flew in stayed in secluded posadas, each with its own dirt runway. Incoming planes were typically given landing instructions by a bartender doubling as an air traffic controller on a two-way radio stashed between tequila bottles. In the old days, a rutted dirt road linked the area's two main villages: Cabo San Lucas (Cape of St. Luke) at the southern end of the strip and San Jose del Cabo (St. Joseph of the Cape) anchoring the upper end. To a must-see escape Today, the region is known as Los Cabos (the capes), or Cabo for short. It consists of the two cities (no longer villages) and replacing the old road between them and miles of wide open spaces a modern, four-lane highway flanked by high-rise condos, recreational areas and two dozen of Cabo's swankiest resorts. Collectively, these properties along with another 20 upscale hotels in the two cities offer a whopping 10,000 rooms more than double the area's inventory of just five years ago. Nearly 2,000 of Cabo's rooms are in 10 resorts awarded Mexico's ultra posh "Gran Turismo" rating. And for your ultimate luxury, 530 rooms at five award-winning properties such as the Palmilla, Las Ventanas al Paraiso and the Marquis Los Cabos boast the country's supreme rating, "Special Category." Getting there is easy International visitors, mainly from the U.S., are now pouring into Cabo on the jets of nine airlines and on several charter carriers. The old dirt airstrips have been replaced by the concrete runways and dual, multi-gate terminals at Los Cabos International Airport, 10 miles inland from San Jose del Cabo (hence the airport's code, SJD) Some visitors drive down to Cabo on a 1,000-mile Transpeninsular highway starting just south of San Diego. Others pack Cabo's marinas with their own or chartered boats, and still others drop in for day visits from more than a dozen cruise ships, some disembarking as many as 3,000 passengers at a clip. Bring your rod, and clubs World-class fishing is still a huge draw at Cabo, but rods and reels are fast sharing the stage with mashies and putters. Developers have so far opened nine golf courses around the area, each a well-watered green oasis surrounded by deserts, spiky Joshua trees and breathtaking views of the Sea of Cortez. Credits for the courses read like a who's who of championship designers, including Robert Trent Jones II, Tom Weiskopf , Tom Fazio, the Dye Corporation and Jack Nicklaus. And plenty of sunscreen Besides catching gamefish (you're encouraged to release them) and trying to keep your golf balls out of the cacti, there are plenty of other activities to keep you busy. Like flaking out on some 20 main beaches around Cabo, snorkeling, scuba diving, wind surfing, kayaking, whale and bird watching, horseback riding and putting around on four-wheel motorcycles called "ATVs." About the towns Looking out at a mile-long bay, Cabo San Lucas (population: 80,000 and growing fast) is where the action is. The town's bustling streets are packed with wall-to-wall shops, familiar fast-food franchises (McDonalds, Domino's Pizza, KFC and the like), traditional Mexican eateries and fine gourmet restaurants. Liberally sprinkled around the city are dozens of cantinas and ear-splitting discos spots with names like Cabo Wabo, the Giggling Marlin, El Squid and Coyote Ugly. In contrast, San Jose del Cabo at the other end of the corridor is a laid back, pleasant city of meandering streets (population: about 30,000 and pretty much staying that size). San Jose, as it's known, made the maps in 1730 when the Jesuits built a mission there, and later on gained some prominence as a trading post for passing ships. Despite its golf course and a dozen ritzy hotels, San Jose still retains the charm of its colonial heritage. Wander around the city and chances are you'll end up at the zocalo (town square). This is where everyone gathers to shoot the breeze, and at night to listen to the sweet strumming of Mexican guitars. Start planning now! To get the scoop on planning your vacation to Los Cabos, visit visitmexico.com (after selecting a language click Destinations and then Los Cabos), or phone the Mexico Tourism Board toll-free at 1-(800)-44-MEXICO. Denver-based freelance writer Bob Schulman is a member of the Mexico Writers Alliance and the Society of American Travel Writers.