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The pleasures of Cape Ann .'The Other Cape'

The pleasures of Cape Ann .'The Other Cape' janedohertyodonoghue.jpg
PRIME – August 2014 By Jane D. O'Donoghue Special to PRIME Vacationers in our area tend to head southeast to the Cape, Cape Cod that is. Others drive northeast and enjoy the delights of "The Other Cape." That would be Cape Ann, with many small towns and villages, 30 miles north of Boston. The name is the fourth given to the area by King Charles I after his mother Queen Anne of Denmark. It is easy to get there simply by driving east on the Mass Turnpike, and taking Exit 14 to Routes I-95 and 128 North. Stay on 128 into Gloucester at the end of the route. This is about a two-hour trip from Springfield. Visitors to Cape Ann can enjoy a leisurely trip through towns such as Gloucester, Rockport and Essex with beaches, museums, entertainment, sailing, shopping, artist's colonies, harbors, deep sea fishing, whale watching, and just plain come-and-relax time. Drive around and view the many lovely estates, mansions by the sea, small cottages from the 1800s, motels, inns, bed & breakfasts, and even restored fishermen's shacks. Colorful gardens dot the scenery. The town of Gloucester remains an active fishing port – the harbor was founded in 1623 – and is the oldest seaport in America. Boat building and repair continue for fishermen and sportsmen alike. The waterfront businesses offer short cruises, deep sea fishing, and whale watching as some of the activities. Sailboats bob on waves awaiting their crews and a day on the water. On the waterfront, sculptures salute the tradition of Fishermen and the Wives who waited. The book and movie "The Perfect Storm" dramatically related the rewards and hazards of this town and the people who dare to risk their lives for the riches of the sea. Gloucester Maritime Heritage Center displays a history of boat building, fishing, and the town. One exhibit that caught my eye was a display of a small wooden box with the name of "Gorton's Salt Cod." That recalled Friday nights of my youth when our choice was often Creamed Cod Fish on Toast, or Codfish Cakes. You either loved it, or hated it. A touch tank at the Center allows anyone to hold a starfish, or pick up a snail. There is also a children's special exhibit room. Hammond Castle in Gloucester, built in 1929, overlooks the waterfront and is filled with collections of Roman, Medieval and Renaissance artifacts. Individual rooms reflect various periods in history and contain items such as suits of armor and educational and historical classes about the holdings. Rockport has many wide beaches and rolling surf on most days, as does all of Cape Ann. Back Beach is popular for scuba diving, and offers lessons to novice divers. Kayaking lessons are also available on the beach, as are rentals. Small sailboats fill the harbor and pass the much-celebrated "Motif Number 1" on their way out to sea. This is a red building on which colorful buoys hang, widely known to painters or photographers as a traditional waterfront scene. Bearskin Neck is a small lane in Rockport always teeming with strollers popping in and out of shops, galleries, and restaurants. Shoppers will find a wealth of handmade jewelry, unique gifts, clothing, seasonal items, ice cream or a special treat of penny candy waiting for purchase and there's something for everyone. The "Fish Shack" has tanks of lobsters, crabs and other live shellfish ready to be cooked and eaten there, or prepared to take with you. The center of town also has antique shops, more galleries, restaurants, "Toad Hall Bookstore" and the "Shalin Liu Performance Center." Patrons are treated to annual Chamber Music and Jazz Festivals and famous performing individuals and musical groups. The Center's full glass wall offers a spectacular view of the ocean as a background for the entertainment. The Rockport Historical Museum is reopening this summer after extensive renovations and exhibits. The Paper House, built in 1929, contains furniture and inside walls made with layered, pasted and rolled newspapers. Headlines of historical events are featured in the front side of many rolls. There are tables, chairs, lamps and even an old time radio made of newspapers. This is a unique collection sure to amuse. The next town is Essex, where the first fried clams were created. Here are more beautiful beaches such as Crane's Beach. The town claims to be America's Antiques Capital with more than 35 shops and stores within walking distance of each other. The Essex River has cruises available and these are especially pleasant on a sunny day. The river meets the ocean current in the bay, and the high banks reflect the tidal effect. A knowledgeable narration on board reflects the history of the local sites and peoples. There are also several museums and fine restaurants to make your visit memorable. If you're looking for a different vacation destination and would like to avoid too many traffic slowdowns, consider turning north to I-95 rather than south as you leave the Massachusetts Turnpike at Exit 14. I visit often to see family members living and working there. One special attraction is my great-grandson Seamus, soon to be two years old. Remember, aim north and see new sights at The Other Cape. Jane D. O'Donoghue is a Hungry Hill native and retired school librarian. Her writing has appeared in local and regional publications. Bookmark and Share